No More Sugar Cane, Plenty of Rum

“Holy Sweetener”, said Kevin on our approach to St. Kitts.  “What happened to the sugar cane?”  Having been here 25 years earlier, he was astonished by the starkness of the landscape.  To me, it looked great!  I didn’t see it in 1989 when it was lush with sugar cane everywhere. Time will tell if the island’s shift to a tourism economy will prove to be a benefit or a curse.

Welcoming Committee Charlie, Ras and Travis at Port Zante Marina

Our guide book once again proved it’s value.  Thank you Chris Doyle!  Please continue your great work so we can enjoy your new updated version as we cruise the Windward Islands next time.  Chris said:  “A marina is a wonderful asset, and the new Port Zante Marina is a wonderful place to stay and view St. Kitts.”  Boy, was he right!  We were met by the welcoming committee of Charlie, Travis, and Ras…who became the star of our St. Kitts experience.  “If you go to the marina, you’ll meet a man named “Ras”, who comes from a family of seamen.  Ras lost the use of his right arm in a mugging when he was 17 years old, and he’ll use his good arm to help out with just about anything.”  And did he!  Within 24 hours of arriving in Basseterre,  our refrigerator was not only topped off with Freon, but fixed properly for good.  Ras‘s neighbor Ras (yes, a different Ras) repaired the torn seams and window in our bimini top.  Kai Kanani’s bottom was cleaned and the barnacles on the rudder were gone!  The topsides, cabin, cockpit, deck, stainless and everything inside were thoroughly cleaned and polished.  And Ras’s mom did our laundry!

Kevin finishing our docking at Port Zante

Defcon level "Green".  Craig's a happy camper!

After almost three weeks on anchor, we thoroughly enjoyed the ease of stepping off the boat on to the dock.  Craig’s “defcon” level dropped all the way to green.  If you live on a boat, nothing is less stressful than being tied up on a quiet dock.  As if to welcome us even further, the lobster boat arrived just as we did, packed, stacked and jacked with big fresh live Caribbean lobsters (the spiny kind, they have no claws). A little green was exchanged for five two pounders still kicking in the bag.  We could have slaved over them on board, as grilling lobsters is not that simple.  But no, Ras had a better idea!  Let’s drive out to Reggae Beach where his friend, the head chef, will grill them for us.  Holy Gourmet meal, perhaps the best lobster ever.  The restaurant closes at 6 pm, just as we arrived.  “No problem, mon, we’ll serve you guys and then leave you to enjoy the evening on the beach.”  Three rounds of cocktails were supplied in advance to ensure the proper libations to accompany this incredible meal, all by our lonesome; Kevin, Craig, Ras and James, our driver.

Sunset Lobsters on the beach.

Jonell, Mark and friend as we met them at Shiggiddy Shack.

Ras came through with so many of his promises, that when he offered to arrange an appointment with the Prime Minister, we were IN!  Besides, Craig really is interested in St. Kitts long term… ask me about their citizenship program.  Despite our best efforts, we didn’t meet the Prime Minister.  

We did, however, meet his opposition!  See the photo of Jonell and Mark (Wilkin, not Wilkins with an S), the General Manager of the local Carib Brewery.  They also make Ting, our new favorite island soft drink.  It’s a delicious all natural grapefruit soda.  

Future Prime Minister?

The Shiggiddy Shack is the most popular bar at Frigate Beach, and maybe on the island.   Jonell and Mark came back to Kai Kanani the next day….Mark, we’ll take you up on your offer of a brewery tour and a case of Carib and Ting next time!

Smiley's Tour
Sundays, we discovered, the rental car companies are closed.  Determined to take a tour of the island, we coerced Ras and Ras to tour us around.  Take a look at our luxurious VIP  limo!  After $45 of gas, a quart of oil and several gallons of water we were on our way!

  Ras and Ras really are neighbors; enjoy the photos of their "villas", only steps from the beach, and join our tour in photos and video.  Don’t miss the Romney House video (no, it’s not our failed Presidential candidate, the Romney name dates back to the 17th century), it’s hilarious.  Kevin and Craig:  first customers of the destined to be most famous and wildly successful “Smiley Tours”.   We’ll broker the fleet of Cadillac stretch limos to be on order soon.

Ras hasn't cut his hair in 24 years.

Preparing our Limo for Smiley's Tour.

Romney House caretaker after libations

This tree is absolutely amazing.  

 

At Cathy's house.  She is Ras' neighbor too.  We enjoyed an incredible local meal at her restaurant on the beach two days earlier.

Ras and Ras live on this street.  The beach is only a few hundred yards away.

Ras lives here....

Ras enjoying Kai Kanani after being paid for his excellent work.

The welder's house.  

Ras with his Mom, who did our laundry, and his niece.

Ras feeling comfortable as he hosts us in his lovely home.

St. Kitts has a spectacular Marriott resort with an 18 hole golf course.  This is a true scale replica of Columbus' favorite ship, the Nina.  Believe it or not...it is built to 50% scale.  

At the Cruise ship dock.
Note he's playing a beer bottle.

The Canadians are coming, the Canadians are coming again! Ashley and her mother Louise from Toronto, and Maila from Buffalo, who enjoyed the last cocktail of the night on Kai Kanani.